DESIGNER'S NOTES

A royal blue Fox & Chave silk habotai scarf featuring a stylised illustration of a cat by the English artist Louis Wain (1860-1939).

Wain electrified early-20th-century British art with his popular illustrations and paintings of wildly expressive cats, which blended Victorian sentiment with the emerging energy of modernism. Influenced by Japanese printmakers, Art Nouveau line work, and the bustling humour of London’s illustrated press, he transformed the domestic cat into a cultural icon, with his stylised felines helping to shift popular illustration toward bold pattern, personality, and psychological depth.

This design features one of Wain's 'Kaleidoscope Cats' created during his late period (c. 1920s–30s) while the artist was institutionalised on account of being declared legally insane. The design dissolves the feline form into vibrant, symmetrical fractals and floral shapes, anticipating psychedelic art. The original gouache painting is currently held by the Bethlem Museum of the Mind in London, where Wain spent several years.

Historically, these works were controversially used in psychology textbooks to illustrate the progression of schizophrenia. However, modern critics dispute this linear narrative, noting that Wain produced these abstract experiments alongside his traditional styles.

Today, the 'Blue Cat' is celebrated not as a symptom of decline, but as a visionary masterpiece of Outsider Art, showcasing Wain’s intense focus on electric patterns and geometric abstraction.

The Wellcome Collection

COLOURS

STYLING

A Fox & Chave habotai silk scarf can be worn with the classic knot style or a pussycat bow. You can even create a shawl effect by knotting two scarves together behind your neck and allowing them to drape over your shoulders. More scarf styling ideas are available in this wonderful How to Tie a Scarf book.